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Deribasovskaya Street is the heart of Old Odessa, with shops ranging from the
government meat store to the Levis outlet.
During fair weather, Deribasovskaya
is the sight for the best
people watching, especially if you stop at one of the numerous
cafes with outdoor seating; but after September, the wise go
indoors. The City Park (Gorsad) near Preobrazhenskaya Street
boasts dozens of craftsmen, strollers and musicians.
Built in 1837 and
site of the famous baby carriage scene in Eisenstein's
"Battleship Potemkin," the Potemkin
Steps are the best
place in the city to view the bay and busy harbors. Walk along
the yellow-bricked Primorskjj Boulevard and note monuments to
Aleksander I, Soviet generals and a British frigate which
grounded off shore during the Crimean War. At the bottom of the
steps is the city's brand new passenger ship terminal and
convention center.
At the Primorskij Boulevard's west end note the
(pre-revolutionary) governor's palace, which incidentally was
heavily damaged in 1854 when the British and French bombarded it.
Count Vorontsov built a Grecian collonade which overlooks the
harbor and also provides a fine view of the bay.
Next to the palace is the Tyoschin
Most, a foot bridge built
over a gorge by a Communist functionary in the 1950s either so
his mother-in-law could visit him more easily or so she would not
have an excuse to stay overnight, depending on which version of
the story you choose to believe. The bridge is a traditional
sight where newly weeds have their pictures taken.
Once home to Odessa's
wealthy merchants, Frantsuskij Boulevard now is home to numerous sanitoria, but the cobblestones and acacia trees are most
reminiscent of Old Odessa.
The
Catacomb Trip
More than 400 km of
catacombs are buried beneath Odessa. Both partisans and smugglers
have used them over the years, and the part of the catacombs
which resistance fighters used in 1941 is open to the public.
Located some 35 km outside of town, the partisan catacomb bus
leaves (as of this writing) daily from the bus kiosk across
Volzhynskij street from the train station at 10 a.m., except
weekends. An easier way to find the bus is to ask at the
information window in the train station The trip takes half a day
and costs 5 hryvnas for the Russian-language version. The bus is
not air-conditioned.
The Odessa Privoz is
one of the biggest farmers' markets in the world and rivals those
in lstanbul and Mexico City. As the saying goes, you can find
anything up to and including nuclear devices at the Privoz, but a
better description is everything that is edible and in season in
the ClS, plus a whole lot more. Although lanes are devoted to
construction materials, clothes and consumer goods, the Privoz
is
best shopped for food. Beware of pickpockets. Haggling is
expected, but a lower-stress approach is to comparison shop.
The
Beach
Odessa's beach, which
actually is made up of several beaches running some 20 km or
more, possesses a sea wall and small-scale eating and drinking
establishments. During the summer, particularly the Lanzheron,
Otrada and Delfin beaches are wall-to-wall people, but solitude
seekers can find quiet by walking farther.
The cable car ride at the
Otrada beach is fun and costs less than
a hryvna. Besides sunbathing and swimming, you can rent paddle
boats or rowboats usually for 2-3 hryvnas an hour. Arkadia beach
is the largest and most developed.
Check out the yacht club - open to the public - at the south end
of Lanzheron beach where you can charter a boat with crew for
$5-10 an hour. The best technique is to approach a likely-looking
vessel and ask the young men how much they charge for their time.
The steep hill dividing the beaches from the city is a green zone
and usually closed to vehicle traffic. It is a favorite sight for picnics.
In the central part
of the city, with a few exceptions, the water does not run from
12 p.m. to 6 p.m. and midnight to 6 p.m.
Due to the dumping of
raw sewage, the seawater is not safe for swimming by any
standard. This does not hinder thousands from diving in, of
course, but avoiding the water is the safest bet.
Lack of funding
combines with uneven concrete and cobblestones to make Odessa a
tough place on shoes and suspensions (actually, as any other
Ukrainian city). Bring a pair of sturdy walking shoes and fix
your suspension as appropriate. Although the locals do it,
walking more than 50 m in high heels on Odessa side walks risks a
sprained ankle.
Street and sidewalk
drainage is poor and pedestrians are likely to get either muddy
or dusty.
The winter average
temperature hovers around freezing, and minus 10 Celcius is
considered a cold day. In the summer daytime temperatures can get
up to 35 Celcius, and either way humidity is high. Air
conditioning is rare and during severe winters heating may not be
adequate.
Women are not equal
citizens. A woman walking alone at night in general will not be
bothered. If she is, assailants are usually intoxicated, numerous
and willing to violence. During dark hours try not to be outside
alone.
Lighting can be bad,
especially in apartment corridors and stairwells, which can be
ink-black at midday. Carry a flashlight - it'll also help when
you pay taxi fare when the driver's dome light doesn't work.
Taxis
Private cars and
taxis swarm the city streets. To hail a car, stand near the road
and put your hand out and a car will stop. Private cars, meaning
locals who have cars and sometimes act as taxi drivers, cost
significantly less than taxis. Be wary of getting in a private
car with more than one person already in it. Although this is the
most common way besides public transport of getting a ride, be
careful and use common sense. Most drivers do not follow many
traffic laws and usually do not speak English. Set the price
before getting in. Two hryvnas is the standard rate for a 5 to 10
minute trip within the inner city. For a 15 to 20 minute trip out
to the suburbs four hryvnas should be sufficient.
Trolleys/Buses
A bus, trolley bus
and tram system exists. These tend to be crammed tight with
people, but are a cheap way to travel around Odessa. Service is
slow and waits for vehicles are long. Prices range from free to 1 hryvna. You pay the driver on the way out of the vehicle.
Rail
Information
Odessa is connected
to European and Asian cities via an extensive network of
railways. To call the rail
station, dial 005.
Tram travel is the least expensive way to reach just about
anywhere.
Trains run every day to Moscow, Budapest, Kiev, Lvov and St.
Petersburg. There are three comfort classes for long distance
train travel: luxury-soft with two pullout beds for more space,
coupe-soft with four beds and platskart with six beds per
compartment. However, electric commuter trains, called
electropotyahy or elektrychky, are usually outfitted only with
hard wooden benches and no amenities. They are generally very
crowded, especially on weekends and in the summertime when people
travel to their summer houses.
For further comfort and privacy, it is recommended that you buy
all the tickets for a compartment. This is an especially good
idea for women traveling alone.
It is always a good idea to bring your own toilet paper, soap and
supply of food and drink. Also, to secure baggage, a simple bike
lock can insure against theft and a bungee cord can be used to
keep the door closed. You may want to bring a travel belt to keep
valuables and money on your person.
 Driving
Driving in Odessa can
be a hazardous experience, but understanding the rules of the
road will be helpful to visitors who are both driving and riding.
If you plan to consume any alcohol, use public transport or
designate a driver. Ukraine is a zero-tolerance country and
punishment will be quickly levied on offenders. Do not expect the
luxury of a breathalizer test. Traffic police will make the
decision to charge you based only on the smell of your breath.
DAI, the traffic police, are easily recognizable. They wear dark
gray or blue uniforms and carry black and white batons with which
they wave to order you to pull over. To avoid complications, it
is recommended that you do so. If you are stopped for a minor
violation and fined a minimal amount, it is easiest to pay on the
spot, but be sure to ask for a receipt.
Most international driving rules apply in Odessa. However, beware
that most locals fail to follow many driving laws. Officially,
speed limits are set at 60 kph/37 mph in cities, 90 kph/56 mph in
unpopulated areas, and 120 kph/72 mph on highways.
At intersections, the vehicle on the right has the right of way.
You cannot turn right on red lights. Observe lane designations
carefully, it may be necessary to turn right and make a U-turn in
order to turn left.
It is important to be on the lookout for tram tracks and unmarked
construction, particularly at night. Be forewarned that street
names are often hard to find from a car window. They are posted
on buildings and spelled in Cyrillic, so it may be helpful to
translate a map into Ukrainian before getting out on the road.
Parking in Odessa is as difficult as in any other European city.
To insure the safety of your car, park in designated areas.
State-owned parking lots are located all over the city and have
varying price depending on the location of the lot.
Communications
Post
Office
Phone cards and
international phone booths are available as well as currency
exchange points. Russian and Ukrainian spoken. Sadovaya,
10. Tel.
26-64-67.
Phones
Public phones are
located around the city, however finding a working one may prove
a bit difficult. The phones require a token, which can be
purchased at most newspaper kiosks.
To make a call, pick up receiver, deposit token, dial the number
and once connected you have about five minutes for a local call.
Long-Distance
Calls
1. Get a dial tone.
2. Dial "8". Get a higher-pitched dial tone.
3. Dial city code and number.
International
Calls
1. Get a dial tone.
2. Dial "8" and wait for the higher-pitched dial tone.
3. Dial "10", the country code and then the local
number.
Note: Even direct
dialing through the local phone system international calls are
not cheap. A call to the United States and Western Europe costs
$4 per minute and even more to the Far East.
Phone
Card Calls
The most convenient
place to make a phone card call is the Passenger Ship
Terminal at
the foot of the Potemkin
Steps.
Talk to the woman at information for details about how to access
your service.
Fine
Arts
Adjacent ticket
office. The building is attractive but the troupe does not
qualify as world class. Chaikovskogo,
3. Tel. 29-13-29.
Rock concerts,
comedians and touring shows appear here. Quality varies. Call
ahead to find out what's playing. Panteleymonovskaya,
3.
Tel. 25-09-24.
Russian-language.
Good to excellent dramas and comedies, performers and stage
personnel at times perform miracles on shoestring budgets.
Beware, some plays are more avante-garde than entertaining. Grecheskaya,
28. Tel. 22-72-50.
Ukrainian language.
State-sponsored cultural productions. The puppet theater is
located here as well. Pastera, 15. Tel. 23-55-66.
Conducted by American
Hobart Earle, the Odessa Philarmonic Orchestra is comparable to
all but the very best European orchestras, and Earle is much more
entertaining. A must-see if the orchestra is not touring abroad,
so call ahead. Bunina, 15. Tel. 25-69-03.
Don't go unless
you're taking the kids. And if you don't like to watch underfed
trained cats and dogs perform, avoid the circus altogether. Koblevskaya,
25. Tel. 22-19-73.
History
The best thing they
have is Suvorov's sword. Some interesting pre-revolutionary
exhibits. Gavannaya 4.
Ship models, and yet
more ship models. Lanzheronovskaya 6. Tel. 24-05-09.
Art Museum
Pre-revolutionary
portraiture. Some fairly impressive works, mostly by Serov.
Sofievskaya 5a. Tel. 23-72-87.
This is where they
keep whatever was dug up before the revolution. It's not the
British museum, but if you get the staff to open the secure room
downstairs you can get much closer to Trojan War era artifacts
than you ever thought possible. Pushkinskaya 9. Tel. 24-66-48.
State-owned and
private stores in Odessa are divided, generally, into grocery
stores, department stores and supermarkets which offer a variety
of domestic and imported products.
When purchasing grocery products at state-owned stores, check
their expiration dates and the labels in Ukrainian language which
ensure the quality of the products.
The stores in Odessa are open on Saturdays and are closed only on
Sundays. The majority of stores have a lunch hour, which is
usually either from 1 to 2 p.m. or from 2 to 3 p.m.
LEVIS
- The Levis outlet. Deribasovskaya
19. Tel. 24-17-66.
REEBOK
- The Reebock outlet. Deribasovskaya
19. Tel. 24-17-65.
PUMA
- The Puma outlet. Located on Deribasovskaya.
BENNETON
- The Benneton outlet. Deribasovskaya
19. Tel. 22-16-98.
NAPOLEON
- Men's clothing store. Located on Deribasovskaya.
BRADLEY'S OF
LONDON - British clothing, mostly for
women. Located on Deribasovskaya.
TTW DOM
- German/East European construction materials and household
supplies. Krymskaya 72. Tel. 56-21-26. Koroleva 44. Tel.
44-45-07.
Supermarkets
TROITSKY
- Imported food from Scandinavia. Liquor, deli and coffee shop.
Currency exchange. Visa accepted. Open 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Troitskaya 54. Tel. 24-90-40.
TSENTRALNY
- Standard selection of produce, meats, cold and frozen foods.
Cash only. Open daily from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Located on
Preobrazhenskaya at the corner of Deribasovskaya.
FRUKTI I OVOSHCHI - With pan pizza takeout. Cash only. Open
daily from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Located on Deribasovskaya.
PRIVOZ
- Produce, meats, dairy, vegetables. Cash only. Open daily except
Monday, from 6 a.m. to 3 p.m. Privoznaya 14. Tel. 22-41-79.
NOVY RYNOK
- Produce, meats, dairy, vegetables. Also, one section offers
construction materials and household supplies. Cash only. Open
daily except Monday from 6 a.m. to 3 p.m. Torgovaya 26. Tel.
26-92-52.
HOTEL SHIP
SHEVCHENKO - Passenger Ship
Terminal. Tel.
25-62-21, 24-51-12.
KRASNAYA
- Pushkinskaya 15. Tel. 22-72-20.
GLORIA
- Passenger Ship Terminal. Tel. 29-42-03, 22-84-49.
LONDONSKAYA
- Primorskiy Boulevard 1. Tel.
22-87-87.
VIKTORIA
- Genuezskaya 24a. Tel. 61-90-32.
ARKADIA
- Genuezskaya 24. Tel. 63-75-27.
ANTARKTIKA
- Literaturnaya. Tel. 68-99-76.
CHERNOE MORE
- Richel'evskaya 59. Tel. 24-20-28.
BOL'SHAYA MOSKOVSKAYA
- Deribasovskaya. Tel. 22-40-16.
SPARTAK-
Deribasovskaya 25. Tel. 26-89-00.
PASSAZH
-
Preobrazhenskaya 34. Tel. 22-48-48.
TSENTRALNAYA
-
Preobrazhenskaya 40. Tel. 26-84-06.
YUNOST'
- Pionerskaya 32. Tel. 63-37-77.
Restaurants
Restaurants do not
require reservations.
HOTEL SHIP
SHEVCHENKO - Austrian chef and menu.
Passenger Ship Terminal. Tel. 25-62-21, 24-51-12.
LONDONSKAYA
- Russian/ Ukrainian specialities. Primorskiy Boulevard
1. Tel.
22-87-87.
KOBE
- Japanese food and wine. Lanzheronovskaya
9. Located across the square from the Opera Theater. Tel. 26-98-06. Credit cards accepted.
Web site http://www.kobe.viptop.ru/.
NEFERTITI
- Middle Eastern cuisine. Located at 39 Bunina
St. next to OVIR.
Tel. 22-33-65, 26-59-83.
BOLOGNA
- Italian and continental dishes. Call for directions. 6th
Station Bolshogo Fontana. Tel. 68-44-70.
CALlFORNIA
BURGER – Burgers and schwarma.
Preobrazhenskaya 52. No phone.
NEVADA
- Baked chicken and pork with barbeque sauce. Kanatnaya 52. No
phone.
DOKKA PIZZA
- Pizza for dine-in or take-out. Kanatnaya
54. No phone.
GALAKTIKA
-
Preobrazhenskaya 23. Tel. 26-67-88.
HOLLYWOOD
- Sadovaya 21. Tel. 24-61-91.
TA-ODESSA
- Russian style food and drinks. Gogolya 4. No phone.
ETIIJD
- Cafe menu. Gogolya 23.
PASSAZH
- Turkish coffee and dishes. Second floor of the Passazh.
VORONTSOV
– Jazz bar and cafe. Deribasovskaya
13.
MICK O'NEIL'S
- Irish bar with tap beer and pub food. All major credit cards
accepted. Deribasovskaya 52.
GULFSTREAM
- Russian cuisine. Otrada Yacht Club. Open in the summer only.
THE SHASHLYK
PLACE BY THE UNIVERSITY -
Shashlyk. Only in
summer. Go down Frantsuskij Boulevard
with the university on the
right, just past the university turn left.
PIKNIK CAFE -
Bar and sandwich cafe. Visa accepted. Ekaterininskaya
23. Tel.
26-70-03.
PETER
- Russian cuisine. Cover charge for music. Corner of Troitskaya
and Ekaterininskaya. Tel. 24-22-15.
PAO LO
- Chinese dishes. Intersection of Preobrazhenskaya and
Malaya Arnautskaya. Cash only.
GLORIA
- Russian and European cuisine. Major credit cards accepted.
Located on the fourth floor of the Passenger Ship
Terminal.
ITALIAN YARD
- Hot pizza and Italian salads, Italian wine in barrels, parking. Filatova St.
31. Tel. 67-97-42.
PAN PASTA -
European cuisine, self-service salad-bar, parking. Generala Petrova
St. 30. Tel. 49-10-69. Cash only.
STEAK HOUSE
- Texas cuisine, American wine in barrels; 16.00 - 19.00:
discounts for lunch. Deribasovskaya
St. 20. Tel. 28-77-75. Cash
only.
PAN PIZZA
- 12 different kinds of pizza, parking. Ekaterininskaya
St. 45.
Tel. 21-74-27. Cash only.
Casinos
ELDORADO
- Slot machines. Ekaterininskaya
19. Tel. 21-82-50.
RICHELIEU
- Black Jack, roulette, baccarat and poker. Pushkinskaya 13. Tel.
22-09-86.
GABRIELLA
- Primorskiy Bulvar 11. Tel. 22-87-87.
Recommended
Bank
Privatbank (Foreign
Currency Exchange and they speak English). You can open an
account and cash your Visa travelers checks. Grecheskaya
Ploshchad 1, Tel. 26-94-16, 26-94-32.
Safety
Crime
Crime is low in
Odessa compared to Western rates. Still, beware of walking alone
late at night and of flashing a lot of money.
Water
It is recommended
that you boil tap water for 10 minutes before drinking it, as it
sometimes contains bacteria.
Bottled water is easy to find in non-state-owned supermarkets and
shops. Be forewarned that the water supply, especially hot, can
be irregular.
Radiation
Radiation levels in
Odessa and most of Ukraine are considered safe and normal by the
U.S. Embassy and other official bodies.
Electricity
The standard electric
voltage in Ukraine is 220 volts. If you bring electric
appliances, make sure to take a plug adapter. For expensive
equipment like computers, it is a good idea to bring a surge
protector as power surges sometimes occur.
Emergency
Numbers
| Fire |
01 |
|
Police |
02 |
|
Ambulance |
03 |
|
Gas |
04 |
|
Elevator |
05 |
|
Morgue |
23-24-15 |
|
Taxi |
080 |
|
Time |
081 |
|
Bus Terminal Info |
004 |
|
Rail Station |
005 |
|
Airport Info |
006 |
|
Odessa Directory Assistance |
09 |
|
General Phone Assistance |
009 |
|
City Dialing Code Information |
069 |
|
Advance orders for long-distance calls (as opposed to direct
dial) |
071
079 |
|
Advance orders for international calls |
8-191
8-192 |
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